Day 4 - Zubiri to Pamplona (21km)

It was before 6 this morning when the other three in my room started getting up, unnecessarily early it seemed to me. But with all the activity it seemed pointless to stay in my bunk so I got my kit ready and had a leisurely breakfast as people were making their way out of the door before 7am.

I left after the majority, some time after 7am, walked through the town in a cool and hazy morning - the sort that seems to warn of a hotter day to come - crossed the 'Rabies' bridge and rejoined the Camino. Today's route followed the valley of the River Arga for some 13 miles to the city of Pamplona, famous for 'bull running' and its links to Ernest Hemingway. The first two hours were along a nicely shaded shrub-lined path laden with elderflower and honeysuckle before the route dropped down to follow the river. Again it all felt very English save for the cloudless blue sky.

              

After two hours I followed a road for a short while (I forgot to sing....) and then crossed to the opposite side of the valley where the route became largely unshaded and in direct sunshine. The white stone of the path added to the sun's effect and I now began to feel the impact from the lack of shade and the heat. The last hour was a rather dispiriting walk through the streets of modern Pamplona before reaching the old city walls and the much more endearing town centre.

Bridge into Old Pamplona

Pamplona Town Hall

I found a hostel, not even open when I arrived as I had made such good time and was ahead of even most who had left before me. I therefore expected to have the pick of the beds but found all but three had been reserved. This was exactly the number I needed as the Canadian couple had asked me to find them somewhere on my arrival. I then received a call, could I get one more bed for an American they were walking with? So off I went to find another hostel, where I once again got the last bed. Surely there is some Camino 'effect' going on here....

The rest of the day was spent exploring the busy town centre and sharing time, drinks and 'pinchos' (tapas) with fellow travellers as they arrived: Americans, Canadians, South Koreans, South Africans and a Dominican Republican - it was quite a mix. It was then back to my bunk in readiness for whatever tomorrow may bring.