Day 12 - Santo Domingo de Calzada to Belorado (23km)

I have now been on the Camino for twelve days and covered nearly 250 kilometres. And now, as the days go by, they are beginning to blur into one. I have slipped happily into the daily routine of up, pack, walk, find accommodation, sleep. It is a cycle that takes place against the backdrop of the weather (today brooding skies) and the scenery (today more rolling green hills and fewer vineyards). What marks each day out as different - the things that stand out as distinct in my memory - are the people you meet, the places you pass through and things you see. And of course, where you end up spending the night.

So what stood out today? Meeting the group of retired Australian women once more as I enjoyed a simple but well appreciated breakfast in a cafe by the cathedral. I had not expected to see them again and had previously really enjoyed their company. Visiting the cathedral to see the chickens but enjoying the beauty of its vast and tranquil interior for far longer than I had expected. By contrast the small, dark and ancient atmosphere of a village church which like so many of the churches here contained beautiful pieces of art within its simple and quiet interior. And on leaving the church hearing the words of Cat Steven's 'Father and Son' playing in the cafe opposite (a pick of mine from yesterday's Desert Island Discs) and enjoying a moment dancing in the church door, brought down by Robin saying 'oh that’s what you were singing yesterday, I recognise it now'! And in the same village a shop owner opening the closed village store so we could buy supplies for lunch because she had by coincidence been standing nearby chatting to a friend. On our leaving (naturally with a new 'emergency' bottle of wine) she locked up after us and disappeared. Again the Camino provides. And finally eating those supplies some hours later sitting in the small square of a tiny village of ochre plastered, wood framed and stone built houses, all decorated with baskets and pots of colourful flowers. We ate in the shade of olive trees before playing on the swings that were there for the local children and passing travellers who felt the need to release their inner child.

The destination for the day was Belgrado. It is a small and simple village of clean lines and a sense of openness in its main square, where I shared a beer with friends before heading back for a communal meal in the municipal albergue where I am staying. It was then off to my bunk-bed in the room I am sharing with twelve others and an early night in readiness for whatever new memories tomorrow has waiting for me...